January 3, 1998

Subject: Happy New Year
Date: 03 Jan 1998 20:11:46 UTC
From: MPilert@yahoo.com


Hello all of you!

I know that I told you that I would be out of touch until Jan 14, but I had some cancellations, and am back in Quelimane Today (Fri.) thru Tues. Morning (7th), so if you have time drop me a line and let me Know how your Christmas was.

Here is what it was like for me: Dec 24 I left Quelimane with four French friends from A.C.F. We flew 2 1/2 hours up to Pemba, and checked into the Nautilus Beach Resort on beautiful Wimbe Beach. We immediately went for a swim in the crystal clear waters. the wind blew quite hard the whole time we were up there, and really took the edge off the harsh tropical heat. That wind reminded me of the Hawaiian trade winds, and I even rented a wind surfer, and was able to do some nice sailing. The bungalows that we stayed in were the best that Pemba had to offer, and were comfortable, although they couldn't keep the water on. They did provide washing water in buckets.

We had a nice seafood dinner, and then headed off to the local church for the Christmas Eve ceremonies. They start at 7:00 and go until midnight. There are all sorts of events, including many different singing groups from several of the local tribes. The singing was really special, each tribe singing in their own language. We stayed for about an hour, and then went back to the Nautilus for a sound nights sleep.

On Christmas morning we awoke to a beautiful hot day, and the wind came up and cooled us down. The nice sea breeze blew all the way up the island chain every day. The local gaff rigged sailing dhows are really able to cover those islands well with that wind, they really go. We spent the next couple of days enjoying Wimbe, and seeing the Pemba area.

On the day of the 27th we got on the boat that we had arranged. this boat was owned by a Frenchman that had moved to the area with his Doctor wife, and two children. The boat was a converted fishing boat. Very basic. We slept on deck in the bedrolls that we brought. There was a primitive shower and toilet. We cooked on a charcoal fire on deck.

We were able to buy some nice shrimp, lobster, and fish from local fishermen. The Lobster divers were very colorful. These guys had a small sailing dhow, and home made diving masks, made from tire innertubes, and glass. They were able to get some fine lobsters.

We arrived at Ibo at sunset on the high tide. On the way we passed through some mangrove islands in a small channel that was only two meters deep at high water. We cooked some squid and went to bed.

The tide went out, and the boat was on the bottom resting at a 30 degree angle. That made for an interesting nights sleep on deck.

The next morning we explored the island which is quite a throw back in time. There is a huge old fort there, and there was once a large settlement there, but it is crumbling now. The goats and chickens ran freely through the buildings. A small population of fishermen lived in the village, and there was not much to be bought in the very small market there.

Spent the night in the Ibo harbor again, and in the morning after another walk about the old settlement we headed out on the high tide for Matemo, the next island north. There was a beautiful beach, with a good reef for snorkeling. From there we headed south past Ibo back through the mangroves which had many pelicans, and other birds.

We spent the next night on Quirimba. There is a large coconut plantation there owned by an old German guy and his wife, who had been there since 1936. He invited us to his house, which was all decked out for Christmas with German Knickknacks, and a Christmas tree with candles on it. We had a beer with him, and them headed back to the boat for dinner and another night sleeping on the slant. I was getting used to it now. In the morning We met again with Herr Gestner, who gave us a tour of his plantation, which covered most of the island. He had a few cows, and even grew his own coffee. As we drove through his coconut trees, he spotted a monkey up one of the trees, and promptly shot it for food for his dogs.

The next day we went back to Pemba, stopping at yet another island to cook lunch, and swim. We arrived in Pemba at sunset. I met some guys from Zimbabwe, who had driven up in a Land Rover. One of them Was quite sick with Malaria, and was recovering from hepatitis. I agreed to fly him to Biera in the morning (we had an extra seat)

Happy new Year,

Love Mike